2012 CBR 1000RR

It’s hard to improve on perfection.
At first glance the color scheme for the 20th anniversary edition looks pretty generic and rushed. Maybe in person it looks better. Good news is that it looks like you might be able to squeeze that oil filter off without removing the plastic. The wheels look great and hopefully they will save some un-sprung weight. I’m still not excited about the electronic combined anti-lock brakes gizmo. Thank goodness it’s still an option. Does anyone know if you can turn those things on and off? Another benefit is no throttle-by-wire! Buy them up boys quickly before these things become completely computer driven. When will it end? Maybe the future for all these electronic gimmicks will be, that you can stay at home and the bike will go for rides by itself while you watch it on you computer. Improved suspension dynamics is always a plus. I wonder if they disrupted the high end RPM on the US models like 08-11 to meet the noise restriction, or modified the exhaust? Nice updated cockpit with a clear large instrumentation panel and a gear position indicator. The exhaust needs a cosmetic update. Personally, I’d like to see a more circular one like on the BMWS1000RR, but most people remove the OEM exhaust anyway, so I guess it's no big deal. What about a more comfortable seat too? And easily removable rear foot peg brackets? A standard solo seat cowl would be nice. How much could that actually cost? Suzuki includes them, why not Honda?
A very nice update for the 20th anniversary.  

Well stated, nice review.

Note to self - "watch ebay for some 2012 forks and a shock . . and maybe wheels."

With one tooth less on the counter, ZBomb, and a 1/4 turn throttle, I'm done with mods.  

xbacksideslider:
Well stated, nice review.

Note to self - "watch ebay for some 2012 forks and a shock . . and maybe wheels."

With one tooth less on the counter, ZBomb, and a 1/4 turn throttle, I'm done with mods.

Good idea to look for some forks, shocks and wheels on ebay in the future. I'm tapped out for now too. Full Yoshi racing exhaust, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel control, Bazzaz ZBomb and custom Dyno mapping. Still need to drop a tooth and that updated 1/4 throttle. Although having two fireblades in the garage doesn't sound so bad either.    

Drop a tooth - dollar for dollar, best money you can spend; second to that, is the 1/4 turn throttle.  

Stock they're geared for the EPA, not for any road.  Heck, they're likely geared too tall for Bonneville!  

Unless I adopted Ben Spies elbow out riding/gripping style, I couldn't twist the stock throttle to wide open without re-gripping.  The consequence, of course, was that in many riding situations, I could not get to full wide open throttle.

Put a temporary marker, tape or white-out, on your throttle/grip and see how often, and when and where, you really are getting to WOT.  

The more I think about the amount of turn that throttle requires, the more I understand why I keep getting a sore wrist. Where can I buy that 1/4 throttle? Honda Racing?
When you say drop a tooth, you’re talking about the rear sprocket, right? If I drop a tooth, this in theory would shorten the gears, thus achieving better acceleration. How in heck do you keep the front wheel on the ground by shortening the gearing on the Fireblade? This shortening also would reduce top speed (however unlikely it will ever be used) and fuel consumption, correct? The throttle upgrade sounds like a great idea, but I'm still hesitant on dropping the tooth. Is it really worth it? What can I expect from shortening the gears?  

double post  

oops again  

Beeyouel:
The more I think about the amount of turn that throttle requires, the more I understand why I keep getting a sore wrist. Where can I buy that 1/4 throttle? Honda Racing?
When you say drop a tooth, you’re talking about the rear sprocket, right? If I drop a tooth, this in theory would shorten the gears, thus achieving better acceleration. How in heck do you keep the front wheel on the ground by shortening the gearing on the Fireblade? This shortening also would reduce top speed (however unlikely it will ever be used) and fuel consumption, correct? The throttle upgrade sounds like a great idea, but I'm still hesitant on dropping the tooth. Is it really worth it? What can I expect from shortening the gears?

Yes, HRC sells a 1/4 turn throttle for the CBR1000RR; it comes with new cables because the innner cable is of a different length.  That meant that I had to remove the throttle bodies to hook up the new cables and that is a simple but trying job because the throttle bodies' plastic/rubber boots are a tight fit on the intake manifolds.  The throttle body assembly/rack has to be pried off and then lubed and forced back on.



As for the gearing, I "dropped a tooth" on the countershaft sprocket - the front one -and that is a rough equivalent of adding three teeth to the rear sprocket.  

The '12 version of the 1kRR is only an update from the recent articles I've read and there is no doubt the new suspension and improved ECU will help the bike. While the changes aren't earth shattering by any means as the engine and most of the bike remains the same. But there is vindication on my part as an owner of '08 version which the dealers tried to blame me for it's poor low end throttle which I insisted and knew was the bike. Since the '08 model they've added a heavier crankshaft and now ECU improvements to specifically improve low end throttle issues. So I was right. I wonder if they've solved the oil burning problem many owners of '08 through '10 bikes have complained about.

But, to the bigger picture, while they've improved on a decent bike I'm not sure it will be enough to pry riders of '08-'11 models to switch to the newer model.  

MotoMarc1 -

What do you mean by "poor low end," from what RPM point do you expect what level of power?  

Did you drop a tooth on the countershaft?  That helps the bottom end, by way of a ratio change to be sure, but still, it helps . . . .  a lot.  

The bike will still do 180 mph or thereabouts; what track has a long enough straight where anyone (with a near stock 160 HP) can reach, let alone really utilize, 180 mph?  Do you need gearing for 200 mph?  The stock gearing is too tall; I suspect that it is a regulatory compliant compromise; the bike loves that shorter gearing. It is transformative.  That's how I got my "low end" power.  

Actually, the issue was more correctly about the initial throttle opening. It was vague and at times caused the bike to stall without warning. Picture feeding some throttle then the bike not responding almost as if you hit the kill switch. Even with a new clutch and throttle adjustments it's not totally predictable but just about bearable. The bike has great midrange but low top end in my opinion. But you are right unless you are on a track 180 to 200 mph is usually unnecessary.  Good point about gearing.  

I'd call that codition an "off idle stumble."

Low top end?  OK, compared to the later/greater peaky offering of BMW.  I gather that the new Kawi isn't as bad.  

For a street bike, who needs it?  

Actually, on-off idle stumble. In terms of power, If additional power wasn't needed then we could have stopped developing bikes 20 years ago. I appreciate the constant move and improvement of bikes especially in areas such as handling, braking, tires, chassis, and of course throttle control. While I'm not a big fan of TC or ABS I appreciate how they help newbies and those that crave the newest gadgets.

Yes, we can argue that bikes that can go 180-200 MPH or more aren't necessary as insurance companies and some politicians do but shouldn't we decide on what's too much based on our honest assessment of our ability and skills. As you know in the wrong hands a 50cc scooter can be deadly.

However, I agree the new Kawi isn't bad when it's uncorked from what I hear and read.  

Honestly, pro racers don't have the ability or skill to go 200 MPH on the street.  

It's not a matter of insurance or politics but self interest - do it and you will die. For those speeds you must have a "controlled course," meaning, no cross traffic or animals or debris or anything unexpected.  

Even on a controlled course, it takes conditioning/experience to begin to be comfortable at those speeds.  

True most riders and even professionals don't have the skill to ride at extreme rates of speed on the street nor should they unless they have a death wish. Have you ever watched Isle of Mann TT races? As you know most riders at least the sane ones don't ride at such hyper speeds for extended periods of time on the street. However, nowadays moreso than before, if you're interested in going significantly faster than permitted on the streets you can take your bike to a track or drag strip to itch the speed bug. Is your assumption that riders can't control themselves on bikes capable of nearly 200 mph? If so, then like in life some people have control and some don't.

So if you ride within your limits (ability and experience), wear proper gear, use appropriate riding strategies, and understand the environment you ride in you should improve your odds of being safe no matter what bike you ride and where you ride.  
If you exceed those limits then you may pay the price. However, it's your choice as no one is bending your arm to go faster than you're capable of.