Friction zone different on 1000cc versus smaller bikes?

As a recent purchaser of 1KRR I've found that it's initial throttle is off compared to my trusty 600. While it's probably a problem specific to my new bike. I was wondering if due to higher compression of 1000's , as manufacturers are tryig to squeeze more top end and have high first gears/ratios if they've sacrificed rideability on these bikes. I've ridden a couple of twin 1000's, R1, and Gsxr750 a couple of years ago and those bikes seem to be spot on with initial throttle responses. Any thoughts?  

You've basically answered your own question. Yes, it's a problem specific to your bike, as demonstrated by the other literbikes you've ridden that had none of the initial throttle response issues. Smooth initial throttle response is crucial to good performance on the street or track, so "sacrificing" it is not an option.  

Thanks Kento, I consider myself a fairly smooth rider in the sense of throttle, shifting and brake response as I try not to upset the bike with too much input at the wrong time. But that said I'm always looking to improve my riding ability. I just dropped off the new bike at the dealer but when I explained the issue to the service manager who of course didn't want to believe it was the bike. It seems like these guys always pre-conceive it's the rider not the bike. I may not be the best rider in the world but anytime I've felt a problem with a bike I've been correct.  

My Yamaha FZ1 has a delayed throttle response and it's a 1000cc motor based on the R1.  It can be a bit abrupt in 1st gear but it's a bit better after that (2nd gear and on...).  

Seems like it just might be a cable adjustment. Maybe when the bike was first
set-up (freight and PDI by the dealer) the adjustment was a bit off.

With the extra power of liter bikes it is even more critical that the throttle
response be smooth.  
Ride Proud, Ride Safe, Have Fun.

Took my 1kRR back to the dealer for the initial throttle issue and asked them to look at the Throttle Position Sensor and throttle cable and clutch cable for adjustments. They didn't check the TPS but adjusted the throttle and clutch cables. While this improved the situation a little bit it didn't cure the problem. After researching other owners with similar issues some did  have some TPS issues and others had to install the Honda race throttle to lessen the slack and improve the response. While others had to go the tuning route by adding a Powercommander or Bazzaz unit with some dyno runs to adjust the mapping. I'll be considering a few options to make the initial throttle response more predictable and accurate.  

Have you tried riding another 1KRR to see it the issue is general to the model and not specific to your bike?  

Good idea, but unfortunately I haven't had a chance or opportunity to ride another 1KRR to see if its specific to my bike.  The dealer has been trying to convince me that it's not the bike. However, I've ridden enough other bikes to know it's something with this bike. I've checked the forums and while most haven't had this issue with that year and model there are few that have experienced similar issues. But I've started making some changes to make it better. Hopefully, this coming Spring I'll be able to fine tune it. If that doesn't work it will be time to shop for another bike. As with most motorcyclists, I have to trust the bike will do what I want when I want and if it can't then it's of no use to me.  

I own a '09 cbr 1000rr as well. Would you mind elaborating on what exactly you mean by "the throttle response is off"?

You mentioned that it's the "initial" response. Do you mean anytime you roll the throttle on? Or does this just happen in certain gears at certain rpm?

What exactly happens and when?  

With my '08 1KRR the "initial" throttle response that I speak of is exactly that, when I start from a stop in 1st gear and start twisting the throttle it's not predictable on how it will react. With most normal motorcycles I've ridden before you can modulate the amount of throttle (or gas) as you begin releasing the clutch and feeding throttle to make the bike move as you wish. This bike at times feels as if it's going to bog therefore you feel the need to give it more throttle then you'd like to as you initially start to move. However, once your in other gears the bike's throttle is more predictable. On older bikes you'd adjust the idle adjuster knob to reduce this problem.  

Are you reffering to the torque curve the I-4 engines need to be up in the R's a bit before you get power. I am a portly fella so I prefer the torque of a twin motor ot even a triple but for flat out raw power the I-4 is a monster once the r's are up. Sorry if thats not what your getting at.  

Not to jump off subject,but some of your issues discussed about your trips to the dealer link directly back to an article written in SR about dealers and their ability to make and keep a customer of a certain brand of motorcycle. I ride a Ducati but my *** bike of choice would be Yamaha. Dont ditch your bike because of your repair shop. I have issues with my Duck, but i am not about to hang out the for sale sign because my repair shop wants to convence me I am nuts about an issue with the bike. to take this one step further, I had an issue with cruise control on my car. the shop kept it for two days and at the end (and a qoute of several hundreds of dollars) they wanted to replace the ECU, and the circuit board behind the dash. I took the car home, spent a weekend Ohming out computer board in the dash and found a broken circuit that I soldered back and completely fix my issue.
   I think your answer is in doing some adjustments yourself. making notes of their results, and or possible the fuel maping on the bike.
 Good luck in solving your issue  

I saw several mentions of TPS, but what about the throttle bodies?  I've an SV1000S and have seen many people on the SV-portal site complain of something similar to the OP's complaint.  The first fixes that are suggested are to adjust the TPS and to synchronize the TBs.  I've also heard many times that dealers don't appear to like to tinker with the TPS.  I've also heard of people having TPS issues not long after getting a new bike...the bikes are maybe coming straight from the factory with jacked-up TPS settings.

Another thing is, my particular bike has a hydraulic clutch and I can't stand it. It makes the clutch friction point seem as thin as tissue paper, making it extremely difficult to find, which also makes it difficult to slip the clutch, since I don't know where the friction point is. I'm pretty sure your 1000RR doesn't have a hydraulic clutch but if it does, that could also be part of your issue.  I'm 90% sure that your RR won't have this type of clutch, though.

If you don't trust your dealer, go get a second opinion (or more).  If I don't like a dealer's response, I usually let them know right off the bat...if they don't change up their attitude or can't help me, I either go somewhere else or attempt to fix it myself.  The last time I had a dealer issue, it was with my truck where they insisted I needed an ECU code reflash to get rid of an O2 sensor alert.  Since I had just had the O2 sensor replaced, I knew it was good, but I wasn't about to trust the dealer and give them $400 for new code when I didn't need it. I confronted the mechanic and told him that I didn't need a code reflash, but he was very insistent that it was needed.  I took the truck home without the ECU being touched and found a how-to on resetting the ECU to get rid of the alert.  If the sensor were bad, the alert would return...it didn't.  The next morning, I sent the the general manager a nasty-gram.

Doing your own maintenance helps you learn about the bike, too, in addition to saving you some money.  You're going to need a shop manual if you go that route.  You don't HAVE to tool on your own bike, though.  Some people just aren't good at it.  I'm that way with electrics...I'm not good at electrical diagnostics and will probably kill myself if I weren't already scared to delve into wiring troubleshooting.  

For the one post related to I-4 versus V2, while you're correct about the torque differences of these bikes it's not the problem I'm having. After you're moving the torque is quite manageable. I've had twins and I-4's and like both for their individual strengths.  

Tennpaso, I agree and as the dealer wasn't much help I've taken to make adjustments to the bike and my riding style. I'm not the type to give up easily.