Chain tension/wheel alignment

Hi,

I have an 09 Kawi ER6n. I was doing a chain tightening when I noticed that if I spin the back wheel that it has some resistance at some point in the rotation. Actually it coincides with where the master link just starts to engage the sproket and then it gets tight and the wheel won't turn with out a little force until it gets past that area. I ended up trying to align the wheel (which means the adjusters are all out of whack and have to start from scratch). It aligns at 3.5 on the hash marks on each side, but why is there that tight spot? Is this normal?

How can I fix it? Opinions on alignment tool?

Thanks,

Mike  

Moved this over to Tech section.

There shouldn't be tightness in any portion of the chain. However, you should be able to notice any kinks that would cause a tight spot in the chain when you spin the rear wheel slowly and examine the chain as it travels between sprockets. If possible, remove the rear wheel and examine the chain carefully, checking for any major differences in flexibility.

Also, make sure that you have the correct tension in the chain according to the owner's manual. Too tight often results in what appears to be a tight spot in the chain that is more related to sprocket teeth runout.  

Maybe that's it, it's too tight, as I didn't actually measure the slack, I just eyeballed it.

Thanks, i'll check it out.  

Ok, I started over. Loosended the axle nut, kicked the tire in so the chain was nice and loose. Spun the wheel to see if it was binding anywhere ( it wasn't ). I also looked down the chain to see how it was tracking. It looked ok and the sproket seemed pretty much down the center of the chain for the most part (slight variations). I had the adjuster nuts screwed all the way out (which meant the swing are end caps were loose. I noted that the hash marks were both at 3. I began tightening the adjuster nuts until the chain was within spec (1.2 - 1.6 inch deflection). I rechecked that the wheel wasn't binding anywhere. I thin torqued the axle nut (80 ft-lbs). I rechecked the wheel spin and it seemed ok.

I took it for a ride. The first thing I noticed was that it was a little harder to shift into neutral, or maybe it was my imagination???? Also, once I parked it for bed I noticed the dirt on the rear tire seemed to favor one side of the tire (chain side). Again, maybe just the road I was on had more corners on that side????

Any thoughts would be helpful,

thanks,

Mike  

I wouldn't worry about it. As long as the chain has the proper tension when torqued and is properly aligned, you should be fine.  

Hey Mike, My name is Cal,been a M/C"Sportbike" Tech for over 20+ years so I hope I can shed some lite on this issue. First,what type of chain are you using?. Original equipment chains are generaly whats refered to as " Endless ",meaning it has a "pressed on master-link plate. If the outer plate is pressed to tight, it will never do anything more than cause damage! Sometimes very costly damage! If left like it is,it most certainly cause pre-mature sprocket carrier failure, as well trans output shaft/bearing failure. No amount of "alignment effort" will remedy this incorrect this problem, or as would put,"built-in failure of the equipment,that you shelled out your hard earned money for! Solution, if you are not very confident doing your own work,take your bike to reputable shop and have them replace your master link. Be aware though, it is not uncommon for drive chains to develope whats called "tight&loose spots. Dont be pressured to buying a new chain sprocket set just because they say its the only way to remedy the cause. If you pressured,take your somewhere else,get a second opinion. One other note,the notches on your swing-arm are loose reference point,at best. Dont trust them accurate,remember thousands of swing-arms have been produced by the machine over and over,its only common sense that there will be inaccuracies in prodution.The best method I have found,is to have your bike on a race stand,with spools,not a "universal" stand as you will discover that a bike has a tendancy to slip off,and destroy expensive replacement parts.As was saying,snug your axle nut just enough to allow some movement as needed,place a 10,12,whatever is closer,between the bottom of rear sprocket and between chain and sprocket and roll the rear wheel in the direction of normal (as if wheel is traveling on the ground) and apply moderate tension to pull the chain "taute", now the difficult part,do your best to "sight" down the chain and you see right away if your appears to be" bowing " to the right or left,adjust accordingly.Be mindful of 2 very important aspects, late model S/B's have a built in quirk, the swingarms spred "open" when you loose the axle. What this means is you have to accomedate for chain tension that will acure during tightening. When all is correct,you should have approx. 25mm of free play with bike on its own weight. And remember to make sure all your critical fasteners are properly torqued,and your chain is lubed, rollers should appear oily and sticky. If there shiny its not lubed enough,period. Always spray your chain on the bottom side as it enters contact with the rear sprocket,this will ensure that the lube is getting where it needs to be. Dont spray the chain on the back sprocket from the rear, all that is going to is fling chain lube all over your helmet&riding gear,not to mention,the rear wheel,dificult to clean at best.Well Mike, I know this been very lengthy and drawnout, but proper M/C preventive maintenance,your bike will spend more you enjoyment instead of "whats wrong with it now and how much is going set me back!!"  

Hey Mike, My name is Cal,been a M/C"Sportbike" Tech for over 20+ years so I hope I can shed some lite on this issue. First,what type of chain are you using?. Original equipment chains are generaly whats refered to as " Endless ",meaning it has a "pressed on master-link plate. If the outer plate is pressed to tight, it will never do anything more than cause damage! Sometimes very costly damage! If left like it is,it most certainly will cause pre-mature sprocket carrier bearing failure, as well as possibly cause trans output shaft/bearing failure. No amount of "alignment effort" will remedy this  this problem, or as I would put it,"built-in failure of the equipment,that you shelled out your hard earned money for! Solution, if you are not very confident about doing your own work, then take your bike to reputable shop and ask them to inspect your master link. Be aware though, it is not uncommon for drive chains to develope whats called "tight&loose spots. Dont be pressured in to buying a new chain&sprocket set just because they say its the only way to remedy the cause. If you feel pressured,take your bike somewhere else,get a second opinion. One other note,the notches on your swing-arm are a loose reference point,at best. Dont trust them to be accurate,remember thousands of swing-arms have been produced by the machine over and over,its only common sense that there will be inaccuracies in prodution.The best method I have found,is to have your bike on a race stand,with spools,not a "universal" stand as you will discover that a bike has a tendancy to slip off,and destroy expensive replacement parts.As I was saying,snug your axle nut just enough to allow some movement as needed,place a 10,12,whatever is closer,between the bottom of rear sprocket and between chain and sprocket and roll the rear wheel in the direction of normal (as if wheel is traveling on the ground) and apply moderate tension to pull the chain "taute", now the difficult part,do your best to "sight" down the chain and you see right away if your appears to be" bowing " to the right or left,adjust accordingly.Be mindful of 2 very important aspects, late model S/B's have a built in quirk, the swingarms spred "open" when you loose the axle. What this means is you have to accomedate for chain tension that will acure during tightening. When all is correct,you should have approx. 25mm of free play with bike on its own weight. And remember to make sure all your critical fasteners are properly torqued,and your chain is lubed, rollers should appear oily and sticky. If its shiny, its not lubed enough,period. Always spray your chain on the bottom side,actually its the top, meaning its what you are looking down on,so it coats both the chain and sprocket contact points equally, this will ensure that the lube is getting where it needs to be. Dont spray the chain on the back sprocket from the rear, all that is going to is fling chain lube all over your helmet&riding gear,not to mention,the rear wheel,dificult to clean at best.Well Mike, I know this been very lengthy and drawnout, but proper M/C preventive maintenance,your bike will spend more you enjoyment instead of "whats wrong with it now and how much is going set me back!!" Ride safely and enjoy,its the most you csn have your clothes on!!!!!!