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Ready to call it a Season, and park that Bike for the Winter?
Store it right, and she will fire right up come Spring, ready to take you into Summer. Doesn't mater what kind of Bike you have, Cruiser, Sport, Vintage, or New, they all require the same care when being parked for an extended period.
It really is not too complicated, although it does take some effort, commitment, and planning, first off, with the decision that it actually is time to park it. Once the procedures for Winter Storage have been preformed, they will need to be repeated should the Bike be started, and run, prior to Spring, or the end of the Storage Period.
Bare in mind, that the procedures outlined here do not apply to Prolonged Periods of Storage (more that 6 months). For that type of Storage, you will need to go much further than the simple tips being offered here. Feel free to contact me for an outline of those steps.
Step 1: Final Ride of the Season- Decision made to Park it
You don't really need to take it out for that "Last Ride", per say, however you will need to run it long enough to get it completely warmed up to Running Temperature to prep it correctly. If you do take the ride, stop at an Auto Parts Store for a bottle of Fuel Stabilizer. Before arriving home, stop at the closest Gas Station to your final destination, where you will add the correct amount of Fuel Stabilizer to your Tank, in relation to the amount of Fuel the Tank holds, as per instructions on the Fuel Stabilizer Label. In all actuality, you can't really add too much, as it burns off anyway, although you can fall short, by not adding enough!
If the weather is crap, or you are not taking the Bike out again, and doing this procedure where parked, have as much fresh Gas on hand as will be required to fill the Tank. Add the Stabilizer first, and then fill the tank. Start the Bike, and allow it to reach full running temp. If it is Water Cooled, listen for the Fan to run before turning the Engine off. Be certain that if you are in the Garage while doing this, that there is sufficient Fresh Air!
~Reason for Warm up? - First, this will get the Engine ready for Step 2; Second, it will make certain that the Fuel Stabilizer has been run through the Carbs; Third, it will evaporate any moisture from inside the Engine that forms from natural aspiration, and condensation.
~Why Fuel Stablizer? - Draining the Tank, and/or running the Bike out of Fuel, does not get all the Gas out of the Carbs, even if you drain the Float Bowls. Fuel will still be trapped in the tiny Ports, and Jets, within the Body of the Carburetor, defeating the entire reason for doing it! As well, an empty Tank will be subjected to Rust, as condensation builds within it throughout the Winter. Besides, you won't have to add Fuel after months of waiting to ride it, and Gas Prices are bound to be higher next year!
Step 2: Change Oil & Filter
If you run Synthetics, as I do, make an exception for this Oil Change (unless you don't mind tossing out $50 Bucks worth of Oil come Spring!). Just buy the basic 10/40 Motorcycle Engine Oil, sufficient to fill the Case to a Standard Level, and include the correct Oil Filter for your Bike. Once the Engine has cooled a bit (Not Cold, always change your Oil with the Engine Warm!), dump the Oil, and change the Filter. Refill the Engine to the Correct Standard Level, and start the Bike once more, allowing it to run at Idle for a few minutes. Take this time, as it is running, to listen to the tone of the Exhaust, as it will be the last time you hear it until Spring!
~Why Basic Oil? - Not to worry if you run Synthetic Oil, and now run it with Mineral Oil. ALL Synthetic Oil will absorb small remaining amounts of Mineral Oil without any harm to it. Remember the first time you changed over to Synthetic? It came from the Factory with Mineral Oil! So come Spring, when you are ready to revert back to Synthetic, no harm will be done.
~Why change the Oil? - Damaging Chemical Compounds, and Combustion By-products, are captured in the Engine Oil, and you do not want to leave it in your Engine for prolonged periods of time. Acids form in Used Motor Oil, which will do considerable damage to Interior Surfaces, and Bearings.
~Why not fill the entire Case with Oil? - Aside from it being a total waste of money, it will not provide any additional protection than the Fresh Oil you just ran through the Engine. As well, when you are ready to restart the Bike in Spring, you will have to drain off the excess, rather than just riding away!
Step 3: Inspection, Sponge Bath, and Wax
This is an important step, as much so as changing the Oil. First off, you want to store it clean, so it will be clean when you discover it hiding in the Garage come Spring. Waxing it will keep dust from adhering to various surfaces, and the most it will need is a good 'once over' with a cloth to be ready for 'show time'. Although, the Inspection is really the most important aspect of this Step, and as you Wash/Wax it, take your time to look it over for damage, rust, and the general condition of the Frame, Chain (if you have one), Rubber Parts, Fairing Works, and Brake System. Make a list of things you find which need service, and plan on doing these things during the Winter Break, so she will be fully ready for action come Spring.
If you are a Motor Head Wrench Monkey like me, you can skip this step, cause you will be tearing down the Bike for a Full Inspection!
What to look for? -
~Chain Wear; Look for worn out Cams/Links/Sprocket. If the Chain looks good, take this time to Oil it up.
~If your Bike is Shaft Driven, check the Gear Oil at this time.
~Brake & Clutch Fluids; look for cloudy, or dark Fluids. Should be clear! Don't forget to look at the rear Brake Fluid (unless you have a Drum Assembly in the Rear).
~Brake Pads F/R; Still got any? Check the Brake Rotors for scoring/excessive wear.
~Tires; Look for satisfactory Tread Depth, Nails/Rocks/Road Debris embedded into rubber, and check the Side Walls for cracking/checking/separation.
~Forks; Look for cracked Dust Seals, or leaking Fork Oil Seals.
~Coolant System; Look for leaks, and check condition of Coolant (should be bright green).
~Pull the Spark Plugs for a good cleaning with a Wire Brush, gap them, and return them to the Engine. Check the Air Filter at this time as well. If either, or both need to be replaced, do not leave them out of the Bike, as this will be an entrance for moisture. Wait to toss them out until you have the new replacements.
Ok... this may seem like a lot of work, although it will be well worth it, and you are nearly done!
Step 4: Final Prep!
~Check the Tire Pressure, and set to Side Wall Specs. Be sure to recheck this throughout the Winter Storage Period, as the cold will reduce the pressure. Tires that are allowed to hold the weight of the Bike for prolonged periods of time, at low pressure, will develop Side Wall cracks... Not good! Leave it on the Center Stand (if you have one) to help out the Rear Tire.
~For those of you storing in a Non-Heated Garage, it is a good idea to slip a small Plastic Garbage Bag over each Exhaust Can, with a Rubber Band around it, in addition to packing one into to the Air Intake (or both Intakes if you have Ram Air Induction). This will prevent moisture from getting into the Engine, and Exhaust System, resulting in condensation in the Engine Case, rusty Valves/Exhaust Pipes, and damp Silencer Packing. Do this before the Engine has completely cooled, as the Engine will draw in damp air, to replace the warm air.
~Disconnect the Battery, and remove it from the Bike. Clean it if dirty, and inspect it for damage/cracks, or low level of Fluid. If still good, plan on charging it periodically throughout the Winter, to keep the Acid active. Stow it in a safe place where it will not get knocked over, and will be easily found later.
~If your Bike is Water Cooled, check/top off the Coolant System as a final step, in addition to the Brake/Clutch Reservoirs if the Fluid within these systems was good.
That's it! You’re Done. If you have a cover, use it, and if you don't, use a Bed Sheet to keep it clean.
Come Spring... Return the Charged Battery to the Bike, pull any Plastic Bags you may have used, fire it up, and ride it until the Tank is near empty. At that point, change the Oil once more (no need to change the Oil Filter at this time, unless you use Synthetic, and... well, you know...change the Filter!). Don't forget to check the Tire Pressure before you take off into the Spring Sunshine, and remember to take it easy after not riding for the Winter!
Hope you all had a great Riding Season this year!
Renaissance Man
Please note that this is not all inclusive, nor does this constitute services rendered, and in no way should be represented as liable, nor responsible, for any damages that may result from storage of a Motorcycle after following the outlined procedures. Sorry... had to include the 'Fine Print'!
Renaissance Man ©2008
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Wow... that is Arctic Climate!
Most Standard Brands of Antifreeze will retain their stability, and resist freezing to a Temperature of -34 Degrees, provided they are still in 'good' condition. In reality, Ethylene Glycol, the primary component of Antifreeze, never goes bad, however, the various compounds mixed with it (for color, anti-corrosion, and cleaning of Coolant System) age within a short 2 year period.
If you are storing a Bike in Climates that cold (below -34), it is advisable to make certain that your Standard Coolant is in 'good' condition (bright green, and not more than than 2 years old), and that you do not allow your Motorcycle to be exposed to the full measure of those temps! If you are storing in a Garage, toss a small Space Heater out near the Bike, just to cut the edge off the cold, for the time that you can expect it to get that low. Even if you figure that the Oil will only temporarily turn into a Cube of Butter, Gas will still remain stable, and none of the Wiring, Plastics or Metal will suffer in any way, damage to Rubber Tires, and Vinyl Seats can still occur at those temps. Air Pressure in the Tires contains Condensation Moisture, which not only will freeze inside the Tire, it will increase in volume as the Air Temp outside the Tire drops, while the Air inside the Tire remains partially insulated by the Rubber, creating more Ice, which may damage the Tire Structure, and Mounting Bead. In addition, latent Water that may well be residing in the bottom of your Fuel Tank, and Float Bowls, will freeze at those temps, creating some rather undesireable results!
Worst case situation after -35 Degrees is that you find your Tires have gone flat, your Seat has new splits, the lower panals of your Fuel Tank have bulged, or ruptured, and the Float Bowl Assembies need to be replaced, however, there won't be a single thing wrong with your Cooling System!
Although Motorcycles share the Open Roads with Cars/Trucks, they really are not built to withstand the same things that Cars/Trucks can withstand when it comes to Exposure to the Elements. Even their close Cousins, the Sled Dog Snowmobiles, are built differently to withstand the Cold, Snow, and Ice. If it will be that cold for an extended period, or even at -20 Degrees for that mater, it might be the excuss you have been looking for to park that Machine in your Livingroom! At least then you know it is safe, and you get to see it everyday!!!
Best of Luck to you there in MN, and hope you stay warm!!!
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