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Tire profiles....

 
RdRnnr RdRnnr
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 08/08
Posted: 08/27/08
09:16 PM

Hello,

I have a question:

I own a 2007 Kawasaki ZZR 600.  I recently brought a Dunlop Qualifier for the rear.  

The stock Dunlop D207 is still on the front (it’s the OEM tire).  Even though it’s by the same company, somehow now, the handling of the bike seems off.  When I lean for a turn, its feels like the back end is going to slip out from under me.

I am looking to get the Dunlop Qualifier for the front, but I noticed that there are TWO sizes I could get:

1. 120/60 - 17
2. 120/70 - 17

(the front tire that I have on my bike now - Dunlop D207 [OEM], specs are 120/65 - 17)


My question is: in terms of handling and stability, what’s the difference between these two sizes - 120/60 vs. 120/70?

Thanks in advance for any info.  

 
Robi Robi
User | Posts: 70 | Joined: 08/08
Posted: 08/27/08
10:33 PM

How to Read a Tire: Here is the basic breakdown of what each number and letter designates.

Metric Designations
120/60 - 17 67 H
120 = Tire width (mm)
60 = Aspect Ratio (60%)
17 = Rim Diameter (in.)
67 = Load Rating
Z = Speed Rating

This may Help

http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-tires/sizes.htm

Or

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/tires/146_0206_decipher_tire_codes/index.html

Your OEM tire the 207 will have a less "Aggressive" profile then the Qualifier, in other words it is shaped more like a "U" Than the new sport tire on the rear it will be shaped more like a "V".  The benefit of the more "V" shaped tire is that it will "Turn in" faster, have a somewhat larger "contact" patch when on the "side" of the tire in the turn.  You do give up some stability in the straight lines, the bike will not feel as stable when your not turning.   As for the size you should use on the front? There should be in your owner's manual a listing of "recommended" sizes, check there and see if they recommend the 120/60 or 70.  The choice can effect your suspension settings and much much more: So, be careful. Yet I think both will work and depending on you, your bike and how you ride, the difference in the aspects should make the 60 more stable day to day but the 70 may well turn in better (Or do I have that backwards ?)  

 
CAMCOVER CAMCOVER
User | Posts: 94 | Joined: 11/06
Posted: 08/28/08
01:29 AM

Yea the lower profile 60 series will cut in harder than a 70  

 
see75see see75see
New User | Posts: 32 | Joined: 02/08
Posted: 08/28/08
08:08 AM

its not really a good idea to mix sport tires with sport touring. they are made for different purposes and could make your bike unsafe to ride. kawaski does have that wierd sized front tire which isnt made by every tire company. it is ok to mix different brands of tires as long as they are both sport tires. i think bridgestone makes your size tire. get the battle ax bt14 or bt16. not real sure about the differences between the 120/60 and 120/70. im sure they will work ok too, just make sure you have enough clearance if you get the bigger one. good luck  

 
RdRnnr RdRnnr
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 08/08
Posted: 09/06/08
04:38 AM

Thanks to all who posted answers!  I do greatly appreciate it.

And to all (2005 to present) Kawasaki ZZR 600 owners out there:

DO NOT USE THE OEM STOCK DUNLOP 207s WITH THE DUNLOP QUALIFIERS!!  

DUNLOP 207 = SPORT *TOURING* TIRE
DUNLOP QUALIFIERS = *SPORT* TIRE
Not a good match!

Learn from my mistake.

Buy tires in SETS (same manufacturer/same model name), Examples (regarding the Kawasaki ZZR 600) are: the Maxxis Supermaxx M6029 tire (high performance) or the Michelin Pilot Power tire (sport).  Specs. for both: 120/65 front and 180/55 rear.  This meets OEM specs!  Great!

You could get the Dunlop Qualifier for the front, but be careful, there is no 120/65-17 (OEM spec.) for the front.  Only a 120/60 and a 120/70.  If you get either of THESE two sizes, you have to think what will have to be done to your front end to accommodate the non-OEM spec. sizes.  

 
KCCowboy KCCowboy
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 09/15/08
01:31 PM

Robi's Pretty much spot on. Back in the "old" days we altered the geometries of our bikes by tire size, read roll out and rear shock lenght. Match your profiles. And change fronts when you change rears, even though they look good. They're not  

 

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