YAMA BLUE versus MOBIL ONE?

I own a '07 yzf-R6, and I've learned how to do oil change myself on <strong>Pre2Dat</strong>'s '05 ZX-6R I've heard and read a couple of forums here sometime ago, that that R6 or yamaha's bike should stick with using YAMA BLUE or else it would start pinging or make some weird noise...I'm just looking to do a in-between-shop-visit maintainence to keep my bike it optimal shape, so I really some serious advice!!! My buddy Pre2Dat insisted me on posting this and said 'Renaissance Man will respond to you', he also said YAMA BLUE is overrated...as you all can tell MOBIL ONE is his brand of choosing.  Enough of the blabbing, would someone please help??!!!  

REDLINE OIL,THE END.  

MOBIL 1 was one of the first in full synthetic motor oils.  Most important is to get a motorcycle specific oil.  Yes, there is a differance between motorcycle oils and automotive oils.  Secondly, I would stay with the manufacturers recommended weight of oil.  Third,  don't mix different manufacturers oils.  Formulations vary between manufacturers.  Finally,  I have been using MOBIL 1 for years and have had no complaints.  And yes two of my bikes were Yamahas.  A YZF600R and a R1.  

I think your safe using any brand of motorcycle specific oil. Bikes with an intergraded engine and trans it's a bad idea to use striaght motor oil.It doesnt have the anti foaming agents or the friction modifiers to properly lubricate the gear box.If you have any  ?'s with what to use stay with the factory oil and filters and you cant go wrong  

These are all valuable, and valid points, which should be repeated here.

~Never use anything other than Motorcycle Specific Oil.  Standard Automotive Engine Oil does not have the correct compounds to provide lubricate for the Wet Clutch, and will instead cause Clutch Damage, through slippage.  Tranny, and Clutch are fed by the Bikes Engine Oil.

~Never mix differing Brands/Manufacture's Oil, or differient Weight Grades of Oil, or Crude Based Oil with Synthetic Based Oil.  Mixing Oils will result in a 'Off Base' Degraded Compound churning in your Engine.

~Only use Manufacturer's Specified Weight Grades, in accordance to the Specified Schedule for Winter/Summer.  If you do not know what Weight Grade to use in your Motorcycle, request the information from the Manufacturer- Don't guess.

~During Break-in on a New Bike, Do Not remove the Original Oil from the Manufacturer before 1000 miles, or until the Break-in period has elapsed, unless directed to sooner, by the Manufacturer.  Use of Synthetic Blends during Break-in may not allow the Rings to Seat correctly, reducing Engine Life.

~Never introduce something into your Engine which Voids your Warranty!

All that having been said, the question is Yama vs. Mobil.  Chuck them both.  If you are after a "High Quality Synthetic", these are not it.  Not to say that these are bad, they are just "Good Quality".  
The current popular "High Quality" Brand is Red Line, which I have yet to hear, or read anything to the contrary.  However, I recently tried out Royal Purple Synthetic, and found that the Bike Ran cooler, and Shifted Smoother on the First Run!  In addition, the Change Schedule is greatly extended with this product, although I still retain my Personal Religious Oil Change Schedule of 2,000 miles. I am very impressed with this product, and will continue to use it in all future Bikes.

I know, didn't answer about the R6 aspect.  Noise from the R6 is a result of using Crude Based Oil, which does not have adequate prolonged viscosity to meet the demands of the Engine.  Yamaha recommends using thier Product, although any Synthetic will serve the same purpose.

Engine Oil is the Life Blood of your Bike- Don't cheat Yourself, or your Bike, by neglecting this vital preformance aspect.  Change it regularly!!!

Ride it Safe!!!!  

Thanks for everyone's advices it has been very helpful and I've also did some research myself that agrees with everyone's tips for me...once again thank you...Oh I end up choosing the 10W-40 MOTUL mineral base (since I'm still in my first 5000mi), but after that I will switch over to the full synthetic MOTUL (WOW aren't they expensive almost $20/liter), and you all and guys at ROAD RIDERS in San Jose, CA gave me alot help...RIDE HARD AND RIDE SAFE!!!!  

I have a 1994 suzi750f.  I have used brand name motorcycle mineral oils 10-40.  Honda, castrol etc.
Alternated between synthetic 10-40 and mineral 10-40.
I have used twice and sttled on Shell synthetic T 5-40.
This oil is rated for diesals and does not have friction extenders.  Therefore no clutch slippage.
The bike has 47,000 miles.  Does not burn oil or leak.
Warm up and shifting is much quicker.
Keep in mind this is an early 750 with an oil cooled engine.  An oil change takes 4.1 quarts.  I buy it at walmart for less than six dollars a quart.
I also use it in my car.