mobil 1 synthetic car oil in bikes

Abunch of guys on the aprillia forum use Mobil 1 synthetic in their bikes-the car stuff. No known problems, anyone here have some experiance with it?  

I use Mobil 1 15w-50 red cap ( now gold cap ), never had

any issues. Cleaner/smoother shifting/cooler running, great

product.  

I've used mobile 1 for several oil changes now in my '03 SV650S, can't say I've seen any problems with it what so ever...but also can't say I've noticed any advantages, in general I'm not good at picking up subtle differences with bikes.  

One of our members at www.1000rr.net ( ScootR ) does oil testing. The "Gold-cap"( 15-50 )is Highly recommended by him.

Here's the disscussion...
Clicky!  

Had a 311hp hayabusa and I always ran Mobil 1 15w/50.  No problems with clutch slipping and shifted fine.  

Always have used Mobil #1 15-50 never a problem.  Couple ZX9's..Two ZX12's and current ZX10R.  

Synthetic Oils

Pros-

• Reduced Volatility
  
• Lower Engine Temp
  
• Higher Viscosity index
  
• Higher Film Strength  

• Expense
  
• Some are incompatible after extended use because the Friction Modifiers interfere with clutches
  
• Higher Film Strength is a liability in worn out or not broken in engines
  

Finch; what would you say is a reasonable break in, in miles riden, before you switch to a full synthetic?  

I'll take that question.  2000 miles ought to be fine.  

I wouldn't be afraid to switch to mobile 1 full synthetic after only 50-100 miles.


(EDIT:  Why isn't this blue?  The following is a link)
Myth:   You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.

And if that didn't work, heres the address...

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx

Reality:

You can start using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn Technology in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn Technology is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:

   * Aston Martin
   * Bentley Amage and Bentley GT
   * Cadillac CTS, XLR, SRX and STS
   * Chevrolet Corvette
   * Dodge Viper
   * Mercedes-Benz AMG vehicles
   * Mercedes SLR
   * Mitsubishi EVO
   * Pontiac GTO
   * All Porsche vehicles

One of the myths that surrounds synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.  

The way it was explained to me, by a very experienced mechanic (old school), you should run petrolium base oil to ensure the rings seat the cylinder before switching to the slippery stuff.
I suppose more closely controlled tollerances, cylinder finish and ring fitment, could make the break-in period nonessential.
Thanks guys, I feel better now, eventhough I did wait 1200 miles before switching to Amsoil.  

Well for initial break in period I would go with the manufactures sugested Oil until the first Oil change at the manufactures recomended time or mileage (again they have tested it with what they used) It will also help Seal the Piston Ring to groove and Piston Ring to cylinder, which will give you longer life essentially.
(knock down some of the boaring and honing grooves) That is what I know or why wouldn't it come with the synthetic from the factory? The Synthetic wouldn't do all that. (The friction modifiers) Go with what you have then change it later if that's what you want.
Just my opinion    

First off I have often wondered if the clutch mechanism was the only reason for not using oil with friction modifiers. Seems that there may be materials (plastic retainers, seals, etc) on the inside of the engine that would be adversely affected by the use of oils with friction modifiers.
 Secondly, while I don't want to start a flame battle or a "he said, she said" kind of exchange, it seems to me that if you look at the raw numbers comparing Mobil 1 with Amsoil for instance, Mobil is not really that good. THe lubricity of the amsoil is better as is volatility and viscosity index stability. If it lubes better, doesn't evaporate and holds its viscosity better than other products, why not use it? I do and know lots of others who do too. Compare the test results and you'll see that what I have said here is true.  

mobil 1 makes bike oil.... just in case u guys didnt know... not tryin to sound smart or nothin...  

I use the Amsoil 10w40 synthetic bike oil in my zx6r but its $18cnd a liter! The Mobil 1 car oil is cheeper but I perfure to use an oil that was made not just to lube an engine but the gearbox and clutches as well.